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the UK ice conditions server 2024
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Posted by: Xscream179 at 22.44hrs on Tue 30th Dec 08
• View Photos •:: Route(s)
Aonach Mor Left Twin
:: Route Grade
Grade III
:: Weather Conditions
-7 C in Fort William, a little above freezing on the summit. Clear and sunny, Yeehaa
:: Climbing Conditions
Plenty of ice in good condition. Abseiled in not least because Easy Gully was rock hard. Great day out.
:: Climbers
Alan Kimber and Alan Sloan
:: E-Mail Contact
scotsec at eagleskiclub dot org dot uk
Posted by: Guest at 15.03hrs on Thu 2nd Oct 08
:: Route(s)
The Shroud and The Cascade. Blair Fyffe led the difficulties on the Shroud and the cascade was done solo.
:: Route Grade
Not Applicable
:: Weather Conditions
Beautiful day in the morning with a weak front passing over at 1pm, clearing again by 3.30pm. It snowed for a time and small loose powder avalaches came down many approach slopes. Much avalanch activity noted from thursdays thaw with small areas of unstable snow remaining. Higher in the easy gullies it was unknown (did not go there) but large cornices were evident.
:: Climbing Conditions
The shroud is well formed and has received many acents on friday and on saterday (probably at least 8). 1st pitch of dificulties getting thinner... but the fang is very much established with good solid ice all the way.
Mega route X well formed and busy all day as were the clasic ridges. Parties on Orion direct reported good snow/ice but buried under the new powdew.
:: Climbers
James Edwards
:: E-Mail Contact
jaechamonix at hotmail dot com
Posted by: Guest at 14.54hrs on Thu 2nd Oct 08
:: Route(s)
Minus Three Gully
:: Route Grade
Not Applicable
:: Weather Conditions
OK, but with wind and snow around midday
:: Climbing Conditions
Minus Three well built up, but the ice was of variable quality; icicle was quite hard for the grade. Other parties on Minus One and Two gullies & Orion, but otherwise no-one doing any of the face routes in this area. Tried Left Hand Route, but the rocks were plated in soft crusty snow - non weight bearing.
:: Climbers
Adam
:: E-Mail Contact
akassyk at netscapeonline dot co dot uk
Posted by: Guest at 14.50hrs on Thu 2nd Oct 08
:: Route(s)
The Shroud VII,6 on the Ben climbed with Kevin Neal. Up to plateau then mega-bumslide down number four gully.
:: Route Grade
Grade VII
:: Weather Conditions
Nice cold day. Weather threatened to get grotty in the afternoon then cheered up again. Not very windy.
:: Climbing Conditions
The Shroud was in pretty good nick (icicle well connected), the technical crux probably getting up the cruddy and hacked-up ice on the lower wall. The slopes above the icefall were a wee bit dodgy (avalanche-wise) at times. Number four gully was full of soft snow and we used the abseil post to get past the cornice before enjoying the best bumslide ever.
Other routes- Gemini, Boomer's Requiem, Mega Route X, Orion Direct and many other classics all getting ascents and all in good condition. Too much new snow overlying ice on many of the easier routes and The Curtain reputedly quite thin.
:: Climbers
Nick Tarmey
:: E-Mail Contact
nicktarmey at hotmail dot com
Posted by: Guest at 14.48hrs on Thu 2nd Oct 08
:: Route(s)
Observatory Ridge
:: Route Grade
Not Applicable
:: Weather Conditions
Light winds, fair weather. Below freezing on route.
:: Climbing Conditions
Lower buttress poor quality thinly plated iced up rock / bare rocks, upper parts deep unconsolidated powder with no belays - time consuming. Zero Gully finish on perfect neve Only other party on route appeared to retreat.
:: Climbers
A Lynch
:: E-Mail Contact
alynch at therha dot co dot uk
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