The UK Ice Conditions Server // View Reports by Area // Winterhighland

:: Route(s)

General Report

:: Route Grade

Not Applicable

:: Weather Conditions

Shortly after my last report on the 26th Feb the great weather and fantastic views returned for the last weekend of Feb. With a good dump of fresh snow it was a winter wonderland, 3 ideal days for ski touring at least. During this high pressure period the nights were very cold producing nearly the coldest temperatures (- 8) of the season.

:: Climbing Conditions

The problem is that from about the middle of Feb onwards, without particularly cold air, the ice on south facing cliffs like Hells Lum starts to get affected in sunny calm conditions. By the end of the first week in March the Cascade had fallen away and although the Escalator had plenty of ice on it, bare rocks around were wet with no hint of any ice building. There was ice on a good number other routes on Hells Lum that weekend (as there were parties) but I suspect the ice may not have been in top condition. A little further around the head of L. A'an, Quartz Gully on Garbh Uisge Crag had it's usual large quantity of ice though (as it has done all season), some of it being more a grade III than a II. The surface was a bit rotten but good ice was to be found beneath. During the first weekend in March on very large slab avalanche released on the east facing flank of Corrie an Lochain ( N of the Twin Burns). A rough estimate put its width at 350m leaving a crown wall of over a metre. This is the largest avalanche for the past five years in the N. Corries area. It appears to have been trigger by some unsuspecting soles which resulted in a search of the debris.

The cold conditions continued through the week to end with some incredibly stormy conditions on Thurs 11th & Fri 12th. A top windspeed of 132 mph was recorded on the summit of Cairngorm. The relatively warm conditions produced large quantities of hard poorly bonded slab in a number of locations as well as some spectacular flutings. Last Sunday saw a return to milder conditions (but not too warm) and high winds. Wednesday heralded a slow return to colder conditions which is forecast to continue through this weekend and into next week. This afternoon saw wet snow showers hit Boat of Garten (230m).

The charts show cold air surging down across Britain and well into France for the next few days so if you choose your route right, no doubt some good climbing is to be had.

Andrew Bateman
Mountain Innovations Ltd

:: Climbers

Andrew Bateman